How to wash a wool or cashmere sweater without felting it

Why wool shrinks

Wool fibers are covered in tiny scales. Heat and friction make these scales open up, catch on one another, and tighten together: this is felting. In most cases, it’s irreversible. Cashmere, made from goat down, is even finer and more delicate.

Good news: wool doesn’t need to be washed often. It naturally resists odors. Often, airing out a sweater after wearing it is enough; washing it every five to ten wears is usually sufficient. A well-cared-for sweater is also the one whose cost per wear drops over the winters.

Hand washing: the safest method

A visual example from Adeline Loke to compare with the steps in this guide.

Machine washing without the risk

Most newer washing machines have a wool or hand-wash cycle with cold water, very gentle agitation, and a low spin. Used correctly, it’s often as safe as hand washing.

• Check the care label: some wool garments are marked “machine washable.”
• Turn the sweater inside out and place it in a mesh laundry bag.
• Choose the wool cycle, with a maximum temperature of 30 °C and a spin speed no higher than 400 to 600 rpm.
• Use a wool detergent without enzymes, which damage protein fibers.
• Don’t overload the drum.

Drying: the crucial step

Drying is just as important as washing. A wet wool sweater is heavy: hanging it stretches it out of shape. Always dry it flat on a towel or flat drying rack, away from direct sunlight and radiators.

While it’s damp, reshape it: adjust the shoulders, sleeves, and length. This is also the time to fix any slight distortion. Turn it over after a few hours so it dries evenly. Avoid the tumble dryer unless the care label explicitly says otherwise.

How to read the care label

Before washing, check the care label for essential instructions:

• A tub with a hand : hand wash only.
• A tub with a number : maximum machine-wash temperature, often 30 °C for wool.
• A crossed-out tub : do not wash with water; dry cleaning is recommended.
• A square with a crossed-out circle : do not tumble dry.
• A square with a horizontal line : dry flat.
• An iron with one dot : iron at a low temperature, ideally with steam and through a cloth.

When in doubt, always choose the gentlest option: cold water, hand washing, and flat drying.

How to remove a stain from wool

Act quickly and don’t rub: blot the stain with a clean cloth to absorb as much as possible, then apply a little cold water and wool detergent. Avoid hot water, which can set some stains and cause felting. For a greasy stain, a little Sommières earth or talcum powder left on for a few hours can absorb the grease before washing.

Everyday wool care

• Air it out : after each wear, let the sweater air out for a few hours before putting it away.
• Remove wrinkles : steam from a shower or a garment steamer is often enough.
• Remove pills : gently, using a fabric shaver or a special comb.
• Fold to store : hanging a sweater can stretch the shoulders.
• Protect from moths : store clean sweaters in garment bags with cedarwood or lavender.

A well-cared-for wool sweater can last a decade: it’s one of the best ways to embrace a more sustainable fashion. Wool sweaters are also staples of a fall-winter capsule wardrobe.

Not sure about the tub, bars, or drying symbols? The guide to understanding clothing labels offers a decoder to help you choose a method.